Advanced Skincare

1. CLEANSE AND TONE

A cleanser should remove impurities and make-up without damaging the skin, as well as controlling sebum production. This is important for oily skin as sebum reduces the effect of other topical agents. A toner can remove any last traces of debris and balance skin pH, as well as improving the penetration of treatment creams and serums that follow its application.

2. ANTI-OXIDANT TREATMENT - VITAMIN C BASED SERUMS

The preventative action of anti-oxidants is well researched and documented.

As the outermost organ exposed directly to the environment, the skin needs help to protect against free radicals produced in response to UV and environmental damage. Anti-oxidants can mop up these free radicals, and thus are an important group of agents to prevent and reduce the severity of UV-induced skin damage and skin ageing. Vitamin C is a potent ingredient that can reduce inflammation, protect and brighten the skin, stimulate collagen production to diminsh fine lines, and help reduce the appearance of discolouration and dark spots.

Although there are now many available Vitamin C preparations, the effect is limited if they fail to penetrate the skin, and hence not all the concentrations and anti-oxidant effects are the same.

3. CORRECT – TARGETED TREATMENTS FOR SPECIFIC SKIN CONCERNS

Corrective products restore a healthier and more youthful appearance. This category includes products formulated specifically for delicate areas such as eyes, and for the cosmetic improvement of conditions such as dry skin, redness and pigmentation.

4. MOISTURISE

Moisturisers should be formulated to help nourish the skin and to ensure an effective skin barrier. Hydrated skin is healthy, as long as it is part of an overall programme of skincare for your needs.

5. UV PROTECTION - SPF

The importance of skin protection from UV radiation cannot be overemphasized, as human skin is very susceptible to UV damage.

UVA (Ageing) radiation is responsible for ageing damage to the skin, makes up 95% of UV radiation and penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin.

UVB (burning) radiation is responsible for sunburn and can induce skin cancer.

Sunscreens can be chemical (organic) or mineral (physical), the main difference being that chemical products contain UV filtering ingredients. By contrast mineral UV creams contain protective ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and form a barrier on top of the skin. With skin allergies or sensitivities mineral sun creams may not irritate the skin as much.

Broad spectrum sunscreens (UVA and UVB protection) should be part of all skincare regimes, with modern formulations also providing infra-red and high energy visible light protection also. It is recommended you consider a standalone SPF product >30 daily, even during winter. New formulations allow easy application without white residue appearance.

Moisturisers should be formulated to help nourish the skin and to ensure an effective skin barrier. Hydrated skin is healthy, as long as it is part of an overall programme of skincare for your needs. An over-reliance on moisturiser alone, can actually lead to duller skin, as the natural cell communication in the skin is affected, which in turn can interfere with natural hydration. Hence it is important to book a skin consultation to personalise your skincare plan.

Vitamin A is a group of compounds that includes retinol, retinal, retinoic acid. Vitamin A has multiple functions, but is a powerful treatment agent to renew and turn over skin cells. A successful anti-ageing skin management programme should definitely include a Vitamin A based product, along with an anti-oxidant and sunscreen.

Retinol is the commonest form of Vitamin A in skin products as it is better tolerated, and is a proven powerhouse when it comes to increasing cell renewal and boosting collagen production.

It is most effective for acne and sun damaged skin, but can be used by nearly everybody, as it benefits everything from the early signs of ageing to acne and skin texture. The benefits of using retinol outweigh the potential side effects such as skin sensitivity or irritation, but you should seek advice before starting a new product, based on your skin type and concentration of the retinol product, and gradually introduce this into your schedule at night.

Vitamin A in the forms of retinoic acid, tretinoin and isotretinoin are strong tissue stimulators and available only on prescription.

The key products which are medically active, and will influence your skin are:

· Vitamin C serum

· SPF

· Retinol